Skiing the Kungsleden - Days 20 to 25 - Kvikkjok to Vietas
March 25th - Vietas
As I write this we are on a well deserved rest day at the incomparable Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Lodge at Vietas. https://storasjofallet.com/
Only 7 days, all things being equal, between us and the end of our attempt to ski the 476km Kungsleden trail in Sweden.
We have had a real mix of conditions. From melting water on warm sunny days crossing lakes to near hurricane force winds in the high mountains.
We have met some truly wonderful and inspirational people along the way and seen some of the most spectacular scenery of my life.
The following is a précis by day.
Dinner at the Holy Motors Hostel in Kvikkjok. Cecille the French chef and Didzis a fellow skier.
Day 20 - Kvikkjok to Partestugorna
18.64 km - Time: 7 hrs 8 mins - Moving average: 3.7 kmph - Ascent: 318 m - Descent: 128 m - Arrival time: 14.30 hrs - Weather: plus temperatures, around +5°C, high cloud, light southerly wind - Snow conditions: Good
‘Stugorna,’ by the way, is Swedish for ‘mountain cabin’ and like the Germans the Swedes are never happier than when they are joining words together, so Partestugorna translates to the ‘Parte mountain hut.’ Consider yourself educated.
Us about to leave Holy Motors along with the marvellous speed demon Didzis, so fast he will probably be in Abisko by lunchtime.
No Mrs P, we can’t take one with us. Yes Mrs P, I do think that they will have counted them.
Day 20 was remarkably easy. Nice, smooth trail and wide too. For the first time Mrs P and I were able to ski side-by-side. Chatting away on such subjects as how much we already miss everyone at the wonderful Holy Motors hostel, how awful our almost inedible dehydrated breakfasts are and how we both dislike our chest harnesses - we just can’t get them comfortable. Otherwise, we enjoyed the new scenery. After a short but steep climb out of Kvikkjok the ground levelled and rather than heading straight at, up and over the next mountain we bore right and skied along a broad valley via a series of lakes. For a change, the mountains rose - only a few hundred metres - either side of us. Bare rock with serried ranks of pine trees guarding their lower flanks. At one point a huge wall of deep blue ice hung high above the valley.
Our soon to be best buddies the dog sledders pass us for the first, but not last, time
We arrived at the hut at 14.30, which sat at the side of the frozen lake nestled in the pine trees, a record end to a day. Hut, warden hut, woodshed, toilets. Standard stuff. A marked parking area for ski scooters, of which there were none, and another for dog teams. There were 4 teams and a total of 30 dogs. All lay in the snow in lines behind their respective sleds. The mushers, a lovely international bunch from Holland, Germany, Sweden and America were feeding the dogs.
Day 21 - Partestugorna to Aktsestugorna
26.23 km - Time: 10 hrs 32 mins - Moving average: 3.6 kmph - Ascent: 381 m - Descent: 352 m - Arrival time: 17.30 hrs - Weather: All seasons in one day today. Plus temperatures, around +5°C. From warm sunshine to snow, howling wind and back again. high cloud, light southerly wind - Snow conditions: Bloody awful. Ice, ski scooter lumps (a bit like horizontal moguls) and standing water on lakes.
Anyone for a dip?
A very long day and tough as the weather and snow conditions (see above) tried to throw every possible warm weather scenario at us over 10 long hours.
We even got to cross the bottom of a large lake. The lake is regulated, which means that the level recedes during the summer, so in the winter you are kind of skiing along the bottom. Lots of tortured ice sculptures around rocks where the water froze on top and then the water below receded some more. A very strong cold wind meant that I didn’t take many pictures. Crossing the final lake of the day on really horrible ice we were hit by huge gusts of wind. At one point a gust nearly took me off my feet and I turned round to see Mrs P braced in a crouched position as the wind tried to forcibly send her to Finland.
Our new friends, the husky dog team were already in residence when we arrived and had the hot water on for us.
Mrs P finally got to see the Northern lights…
…does anyone else see a demon in the sky!?
Day 22 - Aktsestugorna to Sitojaurestugorna
13.95 km - Time: 5 hrs 15 mins - Moving average: 3.9 kmph - Ascent: 464 m - Descent: 349 m - Arrival time: 13.13 hrs - Weather: Plus temperatures (again), around +5°C but a very cold southerly wind. From warm sunshine to snow, howling wind and back again. high cloud, light southerly wind - Snow conditions: excellent, for a change.
Day 22 - What a difference a day makes. An easy day which can best be described as up (very up), down and along. That’s the short version. The ‘up’ was steep to the point that skiing was impossible and we were forced to strap our skis to the pulks and haul. Huskey dogs love this kind of thing. We were less impressed. However, once we left the trees behind and gained the high plateau, the slope lessened and the snow was about as good as it gets. Rare on this trip. The ‘down’ bit was beautiful. Easy angled, not too many ski scooter humps and as is becoming the norm, Mrs P skillfully navigated all the terrain had to offer with a confident ease. We also met an Iranian, brought up in Manchester and living in Sweden. A lovely melting pot of diverse and wonderful people. The ‘along’ bit was across an easy lake the snow on which was solid enough to take direct lines away from the ski scooter tracks without sinking. Hence we arrived early at the Sitaurestugorna (mountain cabin) shortly after 1pm. It felt a bit like a rest day and we were met by the delightful Angella with hot squash. Some Frenchies were already in residence three of whom we had met before. Smiley, but seemingly incapable of chopping wood or fetching water, which are really the only skills required to enamour oneself to other cabin residents.
I once met a Swede and suffered instant beard envy
About an hour after we arrived our favourite dog teams arrived and it was our turn to make sure there was sufficient hot water for them. They had been forced to take a fifty kilometre route around the mountain as the dogs would not have been able to get up the steep bits. Apparently, on steep sections they think the brakes are on and just stop.
A wet and windy night, the dogs don’t much like wet and wind. They are fine in cold dry weather, but the wet and wind makes then cold. Imagine, if you can, a cold wet day in the UK and compare it too a much colder but dry day on the ski slopes of Europe.
Long after we had gone to sleep we heard Martin, the guide from the excellent Husky Cosmos in Kiruna https://huskycosmos.com/
Sweden, bringing two of the short haired dogs into the room next to us. You could hear and feel their tails wagging with pleasure as they bounced around the cabin. It was lovely to imagine their happy little faces.
Leaving the Aktsestugorna
Day 23 - Sitojaurestugorna to Saltoluokta Mountain Station
20.15 km - Time: 5 hrs 49 mins - Moving average: 5 kmph - Ascent: 362 m - Descent: 604 m - Arrival time: 13.25 hrs - Weather: “Violent Storm” According to the Beaufort Wind Scale. 110kmph winds (30 metres per second). Temperature around -2°C. Windchill around -20°c. Visibility, from good to dreadful. Snow conditions: Good with patches of ice.
Hunting for water on the lake at the Sitojaurestugorna. Like ice fishing only easier.
Day 23 - The forecast (high winds) had worsened overnight to storm force winds. 30 metres per second (whatever that means), or 110kmph, 70mph. Pick you favourite. The Beaufort scale says this is a ‘violent storm,’ one down from Hurricane force. The hut warden advised not travelling, but a hot shower and real food beckoned and most importantly, it would be a following wind if we could cover the 20km before mid afternoon.
Should I stay or should I go now?
It all started well, but as we climbed above the tree line the visibility reduced to, at times, less than 40 metres. Not great when the way markers are 40 metres apart. There was one brief moment when I doubted my decision to begin at all when the snow turned to solid ice and the visibility went almost completely, but the miraculous timing of 4 Swiss guys catching us up at that very moment gave me a little boost and after that conditions only improved. The descent was beautiful as we got below the clag and the vista ahead opened up in all its glory. Generally gentle with the following wind/gale helping our average pace. Progress was swift and easy apart from having to walk the last 3 kilometres as the wind and angle of descent would have quickly seen us reach terminal velocity. Control is tricky (read: Aaarrgghhh!) at those speeds.
A rare photo of us in the storm. Courtesy of the dog sled team
It may be sunny but it’s still blowing a gale
Go to my Instagram page @neilpittsadventures to see a short video taken at the height of the storm.
The STF hut at Saltoluokta is a big one. Only accessible over the mountains or across the lake at one very specific point it is the coming together of many winter routes and tours. I counted around 15 pulkas and when our dog sledding friends arrived, 40 plus dogs.
A marvellous room and a fantastic evening meal with our new friends with their dog teams. Sadly the dogs were not allowed at the dinner table but the 6 of us had a wonderful final evening together as our routes part in the morning.
Such a cute room at the Saltoluokta. Until we exploded into it!
Day 24 - Saltoluokta Mountain Station to Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Lodge, Vietas
14.72 km - Time: 5 hrs 10 mins - Moving average: 3.6 kmph - Ascent: 97 m - Descent: 66 m - Arrival time: 13.49 hrs - Weather: Plus temperatures (again), around +5°C but a very cold southerly wind. Mostly sunny. Snow conditions: Mostly ice at edge of lake.
Our new buddies, the dog sledders. R to L: Mrs P, Jan, Marjolein, Martin, Tippy and me.
Preparing for the off
Day 24 - The lake we needed to follow to get to our next destination and rest day at Vietas is called the Stora Lulevatten. It notoriously dangerous with thin and rotten ice. There is only one safe place to cross, and no safe way to ski the 14km we needed to cover to get to Vietas. Unofficially, I had discovered you could follow the edge of the lake most years, so we took our chances. The only other option is a bus, which would’ve felt like cheating. So we took our lives in our own hands and set off along the edge of the lake. The open water sections were evident but a descent snow ‘beach’ (for want of a better word) made the going relatively problem free and we made the 14 km in good time. Mrs P can testify however that it is weird and disconcerting to feel the ice moving beneath you. The conditions were fair, all things considered, but the need to ski on solid ice almost destroyed Mrs P’s ski skins. Fortunately she has a spare pair.
It’s not so bad
Day 25 - We will spend a rest day (day 25) at the sublime, wonderful, marvellous Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Lodge. The best service, the best Ox cheek in red wine sauce. Just perfect. We can thoroughly recommend a visit
Can I sit down now please?
Tomorrow, day 26, we enter the final stage of our journey along the Kungsleden. Seven days from Vietas to Abisko. There will, once again be no signal during this time. More updates when we arrive in Abisko.
